Tips for
Copper Canyon Travelers |
|
Tips for
Copper Canyon Travelers |
There has been some mighty nice, rainy weather in the Sierra during this summer of 2000.........The road to Batopilas has been under construction on the La Bufa switchbacks and generally the road is closed M-F from 8 am until 6 pm (except for an hour long lunch break from 1-2 pm when traffic can pass) and on Saturday from 8 am- 1 pm. It should be open on Sundays. Remember to check with locals since the schedule is prone to change. It is occasionally possible to get through at other times depending on construction-- but note that this is some serious construction and things just may not be passable and you will not be able to talk your way through........You can now also get local information on the net thanks to Umarike Expeditions at www.umarike.com..............The trail to Cerro Colorado out of Batopilas is currently being converted completely into a road which allows you to travel to Cerro without ever crossing the river. The construction is destroying the last vestiges of a great and historic trail which serviced the area for many years. Of course it does help the locals. It appears the final two stretches of road may be completed this fall. There is also a new road leading off from the Cerro Colorado road at Las Juntas-- it switchbacks way up into the sierra and will ultimately be about 16 km in length. Could offer some worthy riding or hiking...........Tourism does not seem to have been majorly impacted by the Juarez events of early December '99 or by the aftermath of two events including the death of a San Antonio Express reporter (far to the south of the canyons) and the train robbery/murder of a tourist on the Copper Canyon train in November, '98. These events do not necessarily signal any deterioration of travel conditions or political stability in the region. The robbery was just that-- an armed robbery that got ugly when the Swiss tourist who was ultimately gunned down refused to quit videotaping the event (according to local info). Passengers are now required to pass through a security check before getting on the train. The circumstances around the roporters death are somewhat a blur, but he was found in a remote area in Huichol Indian terrain...............Development in the Creel area is continuing at a rapid pace. More town streets have been paved, some of the last cobblestone sections are being cemented, and various storefronts and motels are being remodeled downtown.............There are now pay phones that utilize the Ladatel cards all over the place-- making it once and for all easy and relatively inexpensive to call out of the country...............Lodging is now available in La Bufa at the home of Don Bush. Don offers rooms and camping along with some good meals. His place is located on the hillside above the store-- look for his sign. Do note that he is not always there. You can send him a fax to verify your plans--.......The new Margaritas Hotel is completed and up and running in Cerocahui. They are still working on her new 10 room inn in Batopilas at one of the old entrances to the Batopilas mine and on the foundation of the house where Alexander Shepard's son lived-- it's about 1/4 mile before you get to town. Margarita says it should be ready to go by fall '00, but we doubt it. It will have a great restaurant and comfortable quiet surroundings (but a long walk down to the plaza).........
Older News........ The road to Divisidero
is now all paved...........Report that the 2nd class train does have cushioned
seats and bathrooms counter to what most of the guidebooks say........The
Mexican Mountain Bike Nationals were held in Creel during summer '97 and
the 250 riders apparently loved the hard course................the power
is back on in Batopilas periodically. Because of the dry weather
and low river flow, the power is turned off and on about every hour throughout
the evening...............The Hotel Mary has added private baths to its
rooms and Manuel continues to renovate the rooms-- slowly, but surely........For
eating in Batopilas, -- the Caroline, which boasts at being the "newest
and best" in Batopilas is probably one of your best bets and they
offer some of the rare brewed real coffee in town. There is now a bar serving
beer (legally) just across the side street from the Mary-- the San Juan.
It does have neat evening ambience in a Batopilas sort of way...............There
is also a new coffee shop in town right across from the Riverside Lodge--
El Cafe. They supposedly have a real expresso machine and dark roast
coffee, but we never saw or drank any of it even though we stopped in and
had some coffee (it was brewed).............. Arturo Gutierrez of Expediciones
Umarike (and the Creel mountain bike shop, etc.) is staying busy around
the canyons and Creel. He now offers email checking at his shop--
about 5 pesos a minute and continues to rent a lot of bikes..............He
can also be called directly at his shop now at 011-52-145-60248 from the
US..............
We generally like to spend several days in the Creel area. Creel sits at
around 7,600 ft above sea level, giving it a cool climate and a beautiful
backdrop of pine forests most people would not expect to find in Mexico.
During the dry season (December- June) things are pretty brown and dusty
all over the area, but it's not much different than what you find in all
mountain areas in late winter. Creel is accessible via the famous Chihuahua
al Pacifico train (note that the second class train which is the only one
which allows bikes is only running every other day), numerous daily buses
or by a good paved highway from either the north or now from the south
and Guachochi.
Local attractions which are mostly all advertised and known locally include Recohuata Hot Springs(about 98 degrees; located at the bottom of Tararecua Canyon; 1600 vertical feet down from the top; generally plan to share the area with other tourists), The Valley of the Monks(a stunning valley of free-standing rock spires; about 6 miles from Creel past San Ignacio Mission), Lake Arereco(a nice mountain looking lake that can be accessed right from the main road south of Creel or by a variety of interesting trails via San Ignacio), and Cusarare Falls (a spectacular 100 foot fall on the San Ignacio River/Creek accessed by a great, maintained trail).
Like all of the Tarahumara country, the area around Creel is covered with trails, offering mountain bikers and hikers almost limitless possibilities. Trails become more numerous as you near population centers, so Creel is almost overloaded with a maze of trails (if that's possible). There is generally open access to most trails, but ride or walk with caution, since the trails do belong to the locals (who are by the way friendly and can generally point you in the right direction). It's generally not acceptable to approach homes too closely, dogs can be a problem, and beware of sporadic fences and barbed wire which sometimes just appear across what appears to be well used trails.
In Creel, we usually stay at Margarita's Plaza Mexicana (take the name with a grain of salt). Margarita's is probably the best known hotel in the area for foreign travelers. There is an "old" (Casa Huespedes) and a "new" Margarita's Plaza Mexicana. Both offer clean, heated rooms, private baths, generally hot water, breakfast and dinner. The new Margarita's is more expensive about $46/night double with 2 meals) and offers newer facilities and, for those who tire quickly of beans and tortillas, somewhat better food. The old Margarita's is definitely more popular with the Eurail crowd, and the atmosphere is quite similar to a European youth hostel, filled with trekkers, and backpackers from all over the world. Rates are currently about $12/person/day at the Casa Huespedes with 2 meals. To make reservations call or fax them at 145-60245 from the US. (rates are as of 1/00)
The KOA is located on the main street toward the south end of town. Completed in '98, it is a nice facility that includes RV spaces for 70, about 20 cabins (some with kitchens), a community kitchen for tenters, a restaurant, bar, convenience store, liquor store, washateria, playground, basketball court and meeting cabin. It does really have about everything you need. You can expect to pay about $8/night for camping and about double that for a cabin. The KOA does appear to be becoming more popular with more and more RV's evident at the campsites. Their restaurant offers some might good food we are told.
Another new hotel, the Sierra Bonita is located on the hill to the east of town overlooking the town. Its rooms have kitchens, mostly queen beds, fireplaces and satellite tv. They reportedly have the best food in town with a little different menu and a "disco" (about what you'd expect it to be). It is private, quiet and they do take American Express. Rates are about $95/double.
The Best Western Pension Creel is a sure bet and offers three types of accommodations including new private log cabins that can sleep up to 10 with a kitchen and deluxe private rooms (about $85/double/day). Their accommodations do not include meals but they do offer CNN in their lobby (sometimes) for those of you who can't do without it. The one comment we've heard most about the Pension Creel lately is how out of place and ugly their new "Best Western" sign is, but who are we to say???? Their number is 145-60200 or reservations can be made directly thru Best Western. The owners are friendly and speak English and French. Their restaurant and small pub are open to the public and they have a fine selection of beer and good food. (these rates are as of 1/00).
Another option is the Posada Creel which is on the other side of the tracks near the main plaza. The rooms are clean and the rates good (about $20/room/w/bath; $15/room/shared bath) but the place is pretty noisy, some of the gas heaters seem to be leaking propane, and hot water is not reliable at all. The Parador ($85/double/NO meals) and Motel Cascada Inn (new additions completed as of 1/00) are both nice enough, but quite expensive and offer little that the other hotels don't-- they in fact cater mostly to tour groups who generally don't know what things cost anyway. There are other numerous options which you can check out for yourself.
He also has high quality mountain bikes available for rental by the day (about $8 US/half day and $10/full day). There are other bikes available in town, but don't expect them to be much of a ride or in good repair. Some of Arturo's bikes have shocks. Arturo can also do most bike repairs, offers a limited selection of spare bike parts in his shop, rents climbing and camping gear, and serves a great espresso/capuccino.
Arturo is an excellent rider, and has spent years mapping the area's trails (his maps are available at his shop for 10 pesos). If anyone has the info on a particular trail, it's him. Arturo is also familiar with rock climbing and has done some climbing in the area. He's completely fluent in English and reliable.
You can now contact Arturo via phone at 145-60248.
Arturo Gutierrez
145-60248
you can now also e mail him at kuira@umarike.com.mx
Making the trip down to Batopilas is a definite must. The drive from Creel
to Batopilas has been called the most scenic drive/ride in North America,
and its easy to see why. The road to the halfway point at the La Casita
intersection
is finally all paved (just completed in March '96). From that point the
road narrows and is all gravel (dusty but good during the dry season).
There is a new gas station being contructed in the La Casita area, but
it is still not operational as of 1/00 although it does appear to be getting
close.. The road passes thru two small villages (Basigochi and Kirare)
before making the big plunge straight into the canyon via an incredible
set of switchbacks at La Bufa (note the switchbacks are under construction
as of January 2000 meaning that they are closed most weekdays from 8 am-
6pm except for a break between 1-2 pm), crosses a bridge, then clings to
the side of the canyon for 18 breathtaking miles before reaching the town
of Batopilas. Mountain biking the 40 mile section from La Casita to Batopilas
is a world class backroad ride if there ever was one with a total of 9300
feet of descending and some nice climbs (about 2300 feet worth) to keep
you honest. There is a small store at La Bufa with cold drinks and gatorade
for refueling the body en route). As you drive down, bear in mind
that there was no real road to Batopilas at all until the late 70's.
The visible trail on the north side of the canyon was the main access into
the area for years until the road was completed. Also note that the
known record for ascending from Batopilas to La Casita on a mountain bike
is 4.5 hours!
Batopilas is a small town, limited by the steep canyon walls to one street in width. The town dates back to the 1600's, and is home to what was once an incredibly rich silver mine, operated originally by the Spanish and later by a U.S. ex-patriot , Alexander Shepard and his family up into the early 20th century. The town defies description. It was the third place in N America to have electricity (in the 1890's) but today power outages are a regular part of the day. This is an interesting place with the look and feel of what Mexico is supposed to be like with narrow street and whitewashed buildings and a busy central plaza.
From Batopilas, day trips can be made to Satevo and Cerro Colorado.
Satevo is home to the "Lost Cathedral," a beautiful domed cathedral, whose history is little known. Slow and unsteady restoration of the 300+ year old cathedral is currently underway, so be sure to get inside to have a look at the intricate brick work of the arches and the dome before they are "restored" too completely and leave a small donation. As of Jan '99 the work has been mostly completed so hopefully the church will be around for years to come. There are a couple of small stores in town where you can buy drinks and the ever present Maria's (cookies) and can probably get someone to come over and unlock the door to the church. Travel beyond Satevo toward San Ignacio is typically not recommended although we have ridden the steep road up to El Reventon (2200 feet vertical gain in about 8 miles) which offers some great views back down to Batopilas and down the other side to Rodeo and San Ignacio and the wild frontier of Sinaloa. This is a tough ride if you're just looking for somewhere to get in some miles but the views are beautiful and it is possible to descend back directly to Batopilas via the old camino real (known as the Cuchillo)-- a terrifying ride if you choose to do that or a nice hike if you are sane. Don't stray too far out here and be sure and be back in Batopilas by dark.
Cerro Colorado is a small town up stream and up a side canyon from Batopilas, located directly under the spectacular peak of the same name. The route to Cerro Colorado follows a new road which has pretty much destroyed the great trail (a section of the original Camino Real used by the Spaniards to haul everything in and out of the area) which used to lead up there. The road should mellow in appearance some with time and does make the route finding to the area much simpler and is pretty much all rideable via mountain bike. The road can be driven in the right conditions, but is definitely not made for cars or most other two wheel, low clearance vehicles. If you drive, drive with caution and go prepared for the worst. The route is still a nice day hike or ride in itself. There is a small store in Cerro Colorado and you can arrange for excellent meals at the house of Sra Hernandez just next to the store (the store was moved to new environs directly across the road during '98). Plan on spending about $5 for a filling meal with fresh coffee. This is about the best cup of local coffee in Copper Canyon so be sure and ask for some! The trail continues from Cerro Colorado up to the Tarahumara village of Munerachi which is worth the extra time if you have it (a day trip to Munerachi from Batopilas isn't really feasible unless you can drive to Cerro). Munerachi is a 3 hour walk from Batopilas along the Rio Cerro Colorado and offers a real glimpse at what life in the roadless/carless/truckless parts of Mexico is like. You can also follow another main trail from Cerro Colorado back up into the high country to Yesca and then down into the town of Urique in Urique Canyon (from Urique you can get a ride out of the canyon and eventually to Divisidero and Creel. This trip is do- able via backpack or with burro support, but should be attempted only by knowledgeable backcountry travelers who understand the nuances of remote travel in Mexico or with an experienced guide.
Bus service to Batopilas from Creel (doubtless a wild ride) is
available every other day supposedly leaving Creel at 6 AM, while a Suburban
or van makes the trip on the alternate days. One way fare is around US$7.
Because of the road closures-- check the departure times-- word is that
it leaves Batopilas at about 4 am for the returns to Creel.
In Batopilas, our first choice for lodging is the Casa Real de la
Mina-- a newly renovated facility with 7 rooms with private
baths located near the central plaza. The hotel has a gated courtyard onto
which the rooms open.. The hotel is clean, tastefully decorated (if that
matters to you) and the owner, Martin is friendly and helpful and does
honor his reservations (a real plus in this land of succumbing to the first
person to show up with cash). Rates are $35/double/night without any meals
(as of Jan '00).
Our second choice of accommodations in Batopilas would be the Hotel Mary. The Hotel Mary is right across from the church (which means you should be prepared to hear the bells in their full glory) and offers a relaxing courtyard area for guests. Most of the rooms have private baths and hot water is relatively reliable. Rates at the Mary are about $12/person/day (no meals included) and owner Manuel is a friendly, helpful guy.
Another new option is the Hotel Juanita located between the Plaza and the river and next to the Monse. There is no sign currently, so just ask. There are 7 rooms with private baths, but water is somewhat sparse and the rooms can be stuffy. Rates are $25/room.
An old favorite is the La Palmera. It's the first place you'll pass after entering Batopilas and features 7 basic rooms with private baths and reliable hot water. If rooms should open up, the best part of the Palmera is the nice courtyard. The managers can generally provide basic bean/tortillas for meals to save you from having to walk the 1 Km to the Plaza area every time you get hungry. Expect to pay about $10/person/day without meals.
A fifth hotel is the Hotel Batopilas just a block away from the Mary. It's just a slight step down from the Mary in quality, but will do. Rates are cheap. Other accommodations in town include the Chula Vista (the two story building just down from the Palmera and the Monse which is located right on the Plaza and has been described as a poor person's version of the Old Margarita's in Creel. The Monse is a quiet place and the owner's speak some English. They generally require lights out and no noise after 9 PM. The Monse also has a 4 bedroom house available by the night just upstream from the plaza..
Most of the year you can just show up in Batopilas and find some place to stay, but during the holidays that isn't always true and once you've made the drive or trek or ride down it's not always feasible to turn around and head back to Creel. You can make some sort of reservations for the hotels by calling the caseta in Batopilas and getting them to send for someone from the hotel of your choice who can at least theoretically reserve rooms for you. The caseta number is 145-60624 or 145-60632.
There is another option for lodging en route to Batopilas. American and 15 year La Bufa resident Don Bush is now offering lodging and camping at his home just above the store on the hillside above La Bufa. It's a neat place with great views, comfortable weather, a great library and he cooks some great food. You can take your chances and just show up or you can fax him at 011-52-145-60248 (that's the number for Expediciones Umarike) to confirm a reservation. Rates are about $45/person/day with mighty tasty meals.
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